Friday, March 21, 2008

Gunung Belumut Climb 2008

Istorya ng Aming Pag-akyat sa Belumut
'mern po bang mountaineering org d2?'. This was the question posted by Pandesal at PinoySG. After lingering for more than four months without any replies, the thread was noticed and concluded to a marvelous experience to a group of six pinoys/pinays. Ironically, despite the exchange of replies in PSG, Pandesal never replied back.


Pre-climb at Velocity Mall
After a string of replies and PM's in PSG, as well as emails, Tere and Gits agreed to set a pre-climb meeting on March 8, 2008. The meeting took place at Burger King, Velocity Mall, Novena. Besides Tere and Gits, JungleBoy (with his wife Marivic) and Stab attended the pre-climb. We were strangers to each other with the exception of JungleBoy and Stab who already knew each other. During the meeting, there were three others PSG 'viewers' who approached and informed us that they're interested to join the next climb.

The first plan of trekking Gunung Ledang was cancelled due to the closure of the recreational forest for overnight camp because of accidents that happened last May 2007. Though, it was brought up to the meeting that Ledang is still open for 'day hike'. Since, we were looking for a more exciting overnight camp, we decided to climb Gunung Belumut which at the time of the meeting was known to be open for overnight camp.

After the pre-climb, JungleBoy, Marivic and Stab went to NUS for a volleyball game. While Gits and Tere went off together and parted ways at Outram MRT. Yes, there were no burgers, no drinks ordered at Burger King. Burger King's staff might be 'awed' how come these guys used their place without ordering even a regular fries. Next time Burger King, next time.


'Shopping spree'
We're really excited for the scheduled hike of March 21-22. Train tickets were immediately bought and we went on a 'shopping spree' on camping equipment, buying rucksacks, sleeping pads, stove, clothes etc. No wonder that on the first day of the hike and onwards, we were sporting new gears from foot to head and brandishing new camping equipment. The hard earned money, nonetheless, went to a good investment.

Two days before the actual hike, Silverchair looking for something to do on weekends caught the thread. He showed his enthusiasm by offering himself to carry the packs of the initial group in exchange of allowing him to join the hike. Going for a trip to Malaysia and hiking Gunung Belumut was definitely not a bad idea to spend the weekend. Well, he bought the last ticket for the second class train going to Kluang and went for a last minute 'shopping'. By the way, thanks Silverchair, but climbing mountain is a lot more challenging with pack at your back. Perhaps on other activities we will give you the opportunity to carry our packs.


Trip to Gunung Belumut
It was a restless and exciting night of March 20. Not only twice we packed and unpacked our backpacks. Numerous times we weighed, fitted the packs and wiggled our bodies to check that these were balance. Some slept around 2:00am, JungleBoy slept at the train station. Fortunate for him that Marivic is an understandable wife.

Around 5:00am on March 21 we met again, and now the group was complete. There were six of us, JungleBoy, Stab, Silverchair, Gits, Tere and her sorority sister Dess. After hi's and hello's and pictures, we queued and passed the Malaysian immigration, then boarded the Lambian Timur train. Quite a decent train with air-condition and lot of leg room, though the actual seats were conspicuously different from the photos displayed in their website. After a very short travel, we alighted from the train to clear with the Singapore immigration. We only discovered that taking pictures were not allowed at the immigration when Tere was confronted by an ICA officer who demanded to delete the photos she has taken.

From Johor Bahru, we passed seven towns before arriving in Kluang around 8:15am. Looking for breakfast, we entered the Kluang Rail Coffee. On the table were prepared meals neatly packed in 'paper and banana leaf'. There were also 'kampong' eggs. We just not sure if these were already cooked or not. JungleBoy gave us a tip to check if an egg is cooked. Holding the egg in an upright position, spin it and if it wobbles irregularly it is not cook, he said to us. That day it was not conclusively proven or we just lack the scientific approach to prove or disprove his hypothesis. Well, that would be an assignment for us. Besides the prepared meals, we ordered kaya toast and ice Milo.

After sipping the last drops of ice Milo, we headed to town to buy 'essential things'. Kluang looks like a sleepy town. We're hopping around looking for an open grocery until a local was able to give us the right direction.

Tere and Silverchair bought packs of Marlboro at a small shop near the grocery. Only one thing was left, vodka. So Stab, Tere and Dess went shopping for the 'essential' vodka, while JungleBoy and Gits went to McDonalds to buy lunch for the group. Silverchair was left looking at our packs. After securing our lunch, JungleBoy fetched the taxi driver who accosted us on our arrival at the train station. The driver brought along with him another cabby. The driver was familiar with the policies in hiking Gunung Belumut. He first took us to the police station to register.

From the police station, we headed to our ultimate destination traveling across expanse of open land and palm plantations. We're very excited as we saw Gunung Belumut from afar revealing its majestic beauty.

From the main highway, the cabs turned to a ashpalted road and traveled for about 10mins passing palm trees with trunks practically covered with moss. At 11:00am, we reached the kick off point of Gunung Belumut. There were a couple of stores, children playground commonly seen in HDB, some cottages and camp sites.

When we arrived, we were informed that the assigned forest ranger went to mosque to pray and will be back in the afternoon. We felt a bit disappointed. Moreover, some Malaysian ladies at the store were insisting that we can not climb without a permit. But we were determined to climb Belumut. Considering the mental and physical preparation we undertook, the effort and time we spent to travel more than 100 kms and last but not the least, we outfitted ourselves like 'fashion models' of camping equipment, definitely our adventure to Gunung Belumut must push through.

We huddled around on how to face this predicament. We knew that there were Singapore Adventure Club members who had already made a head start. So, Gits just told to the ladies that we need to 'catch' the first group. Well, you can brand this action whatever you want, but for us, this desperate situation needs a 'desperate reason'. After telling this to the ladies, they stop grumbling words of discouragement. If this helps or not, one sure thing it showed that we're obstinate and determined climbers. Perhaps the ladies also realized that they should not spoil the fun of these 'tourists'. After, leaving our registration form, we walk towards a cottage for our lunch. Reaching the cottage, we saw irritable 'picnic by products'. It was very disappointing that these 'visitors' after enjoying the scenic beauty of Belumut just indifferently left their wastes considering there were trash bins nearby. Stab and Silverchair impulsely started picking up the rubbish, quite comforting to think there are still individuals that have love and care for nature.


Kick off
We ate our 'McDo Big Breakfast' lunch and made a final preparation before kick off. It was about 1:00pm when we crossed a bridge that served as an entrance to Gunung Belumut. At the other end, a red signboard was posted and written on it 'WARNING! CLIMBING MOUNT BELUMUT WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE STATE DIRECTOR OF FORESTRY W LL BE ERSEC TED'. Perhaps some climbers did not like the message.

We walked to a cemented staircase and black PVC water pipe laid visibly on the ground. The trail was well marked. There were red and white stripes plastic ribbons, some in yellow, tied to the trees. Likewise, blue and red signs painted visibly on trees. The trail was wet, either it rained before we arrived or sunlight cannot penetrate the thick vegetation of Gunung Belumut.

As we hiked and marveled, the feeling of joy was emanating within each of us. Alas, we're in Gunung Belumut.

After hiking for 20 mins, gushing water can be clearly heard. From the main trail, we turn right and found a camp site. A narrow trail led us to a waterfall. The guys took a dip while Tere and Dess waded in amid 'prickling' fish. Standing still, we felt that the fish apparently pricking our legs.


Unusually pleasant things
It was around 2:00pm when we left from the falls. Belumut showed us unusually pleasant things one can hardly find in a technologically advanced city of Singapore. A 'chameleon' frog that looks like a leaf. Mushrooms that you usually see in cartoon 'Smurfs' and Walt Disney animated films. Giant ants, big blue 'fly', wild colorful flowers. And crickets entertaining us with their choral singing. Truly, every mountain has its unique things and ways to bewitch you.

We took a long break at 'crown rock'. This is Belumut's familiar landmark, a 'crown like' rock formation. As we rested, we took pictures and ate snacks. Posing and munching were not the only side-activities during the hike, Stab and Tere, were singing along with the music from Stab's phone. And one song they aptly sung was Diana Ross' 'I will survive'.

From 'crown rock', the trail descended for a few hundred meters and after this it’s all steep. Rain started to pour. All drenched in rain, we continued to push. The rain refreshed our exhausted bodies. Opening the mouth a bit, thirst was instantly quenched. We just hope that the rain water has no mixture of sulfuric acid. Or at the very least its concentration would be tolerable enough to be ingested.

Belumut's thick vegetation prevented any wind breeze that may chill us. Though, stopping for a moment one can feel the frosty bite. It was on this part of the trail we met most of the SAC members who were already climbing down.


Seemingly endless
The steep trail of Gunung Belumut was seemingly endless. The rain continued to pour and we're quite eager to reach the camp site to rest our tired legs and shoulders. We came to a sight that daunted us. The trail took a vertical course which was almost 90 degrees and water was gushing profusely like a small waterfall but instead of crystal clear, it’s brownish. It was only drizzling and after a brief pause, we began to scramble. Grasping secure footholds and reaching to root trees, we slowly climbed as brownish soiled water continued to gushes down our trail.

With knees hurting, we took turns in carrying Dess' daypack. For a first timer and with the given conditions, Gunung Belumut was a tough one. And she displayed an indomitable spirit.

Looking up the trail, the horizon was clearing. We know we're near to the long sought camp site. Alas! After climbing for 6 hrs. we arrived at the camp site. Cheers! Time to celebrate. Gits before doing anything pulled out a wine bottle from his pack and took a shot before handing it to the group.

Tents were immediately pitched. Tere set up her stove. As the rest, took out and consolidated the foods they had brought. JungleBoy likewise improvised a tent using his poncho. After setting up our humble adobe and kitchen, time to change our wet clothes and prepare for dinner.


'garlic crab stick and beans in deep soy sauce' and danggit
Tere prepared our dinner while Stab and Dess assisted her. JungleBoy took charge of cooking the rice after he found out that the thin aluminum pot was too small to cook the rice. As a BatangueƱo from Taal, JungleBoy displayed his knack in cooking rice by stirring it to prevent any 'tutong'. In case you're planning to hold a big party and you need someone to cook rice just give him a call. But be sure to prepare a 'talyasi', cotton cloth or banana leaves, a 'planggana' and stirrer plus the woods and 'tungko'.

Our main course will beat any chili crab, tom yam, 'Mandarin-Bahasa-Tamil sounding' dish cook here in Singapore. Thanks to Tere who cooked 'garlic crab stick and beans in deep soy sauce' and danggit straight from Bacolod courtesy of Stab. You might be scampering around searching in your cookbooks for 'garlic crab stick and beans in deep soy sauce'. Well, to avoid any complexity, better 'translate' the name of our dish. Ito po ay adobong sitaw 'with a twist', bukod sa 'crab stick' ang bawang ay sahog na rin.

The dinner will not be complete without our 'soured pepper cucumber' as side dish, that's right, pipino salad and 'garlic onion vinegar' dip. We likewise opened one canned mackerel. With our big appetite that night, it required a second round of the crispy danggit. Hastily, Tere lit the stove and started frying danggit.

With the moon gazing on us in its fullness, cool air slightly breezing and only a small portable lamp as light, we had a terrific dinner.


'Vodka roulette'
The night will not be complete without any 'socialization'. Straightaway after the superb dinner, Malaysia's MOSKOVI vodka was opened. And after the 'rite of the first shot' was performed, the 'vodka roulette' took place with mixed peanuts and tuna mackerel as pulutan. Dess refrain from the vodka and opted to drink the Paul Masson Burgundy wine.

As usual, it was 'anything under the moon' topic drinking session. And if the ground was level enough to spin a bottle, Stab will be forcing the group to a 'truth or consequence' game. And with the kind of darkness that night, everyone will be going for the 'truth' rather than face the 'consequence' of tumbling down to Gunung Belumut's foot.

We just began to drink the last vodka bottle when our fun was disrupted by a leech which preyed on JungleBoy's foot. That incident raised the curiosity of Stab and Silverchair, and resulted to a search on the following day for leech in its 'blood deprived' state.

It was 12:30am when we went inside the tents to have a well deserved sleep.


To the peak
Tere, woke us up and as 'Chef de Cuisine' she prepared the breakfast. We had noodles and rice, coffee and green tea for breakfast.

While preparing to go to Belumut's peak, a group of hikers in orange uniform shirt arrived. They were nonplused how we were able to camp overnight. They informed us that existing rules prohibit overnight camping. One of them, scratching his head took out his handphone and sent a SMS, perhaps alerting the forest ranger at the base of Gunung Belumut. There was also a group of Singaporean that came that morning. All of them went to Belumut for a day hike.

After the two groups descended, we started our way to the peak. We trekked for 10 mins passing trees virtually enveloped by moss before arriving at Botak Hill. This is known as a false peak apparently because around it you cannot see any ground higher than it. The place can be a good camp site but there were no trees to shield campers from wind. It was here we had memorable 'jump shots' taken through JungleBoy's DSLR.

We continued to hike for 20 mins. adrenaline pumping in. We can feel that Gunung Belumut's peak was at reach. After passing big boulders on each side of the trail, Hoorah! We reached the peak! Our hearts were rejoicing. Our perseverance was rewarded.

Silverchair was the first one to reach Belumut's summit. A huge boulder standing 10 feet tall and spanning 15 feet in length. With Silverchair assisting, the rest of us followed and climbed the boulder making use of an improvised iron ladder already leaned against it.

On top of the boulder, the clicking of the cameras was continuous as JungleBoy, Tere and Stab shoot for the splendid panorama. Birds and butterflies were flying in front of our view, somewhat welcoming our arrival and inviting us to take pictures of them. There's a chimney like rock that adds splendour to Gunung Belumut scenery.

The burst of camera shots continued. Laughter and smiles filled the air. Then amidst the gaiety, silence momentarily struck the group. In the moment of silence, one may wonder, what each one was thinking or feeling? What memories Gunung Belumut reminded them? Was it a good, happy memory? Sad, painful memory? Was it past life? Past love?

After the fleeting silence, the exuberance of the group resumed. The sun was already high. Before hiking back to camp, JungleBoy took a photo of Stab seemingly levitating on top of the boulder.


Pack up
It was 10:45am when we reached the camp. We started to pack up and prepare for lunch. Just before lunch, the good ol' leech struck again and victimized Tere. Looking at a brighter side, the leeches gave JungleBoy and Tere a 'more complete' experience than the rest of the group (right guys?).

For lunch, we had rice and canned goods: mackerel in brine, chilly tuna, 555 tuna sardines (from Pinas), and vienna sausage.

We just began our lunch, when it started to rain again. Hurriedly, a make shift shelter was set up using JungleBoy’s poncho. The rain added spice and trill to our lunch.

After packing up our meal set, we performed a final sweep to the camp ground. 'Leave nothing but footprints' knowing the significance of this mountaineer tenet, we carried back our camp by products. Ensuring that we will leave no trace to irritably upset climbers that will come after us.

Climbing down was not easy because of the slippery trail as water streamed down the trail. The group split into two. Stab, Gits and Dess were behind while JungleBoy, Tere and Silverchair moved ahead. Stab and Gits took turns in carrying Dess' backpack as her knees were still hurting.

We re-group again at crown rock and had a good rest here. The red wine left from last night socialization was shared. We assembled again and rested at the corner leading to the falls. This was our last stop before making our final trek to the base camp. From here, Stab, Tere and Silverchair went ahead, and behind were JungleBoy, Gits and Dess.


'Illegal' climbers
It was 4:30pm when we finally re-group at the same cottage that we initially prepared before kicking off for the hike. The guys took a dip at the nearby river while Tere and Dess washed up. While cleaning our things, the forest ranger came to our cottage. He reprimanded our actions of climbing Gunung Belumut without a permit. He told us for climbing without a permit he can actually penalize us at the amount of 500,000 ringgit! He further chided us for camping overnight since the policy prohibits overnight camp out in Gunung Belumut. What a luck for these 'illegal' climbers! If he was around the very first day we're looking for him there will be no great pictures, no great adventure. And we will be going back to Singapore utterly disappointed.

The forest ranger asked us to pay 150 ringgit for the permit, then he questioned us how many tents we used. There was a pause from the group, thinking what we should tell him. Well, we told the truth that we used two tents. And for this, the ranger charged us 10 ringgit per tent. Gits bargained if he can give us a 'discount'. The good ranger acceded and waived the payment for the tents.

After collecting the needed amount. Gits and Dess looked for the ranger to pay the fee.


Missed the last train, took the last bus
As soon as everybody was ready, we jumped to the cabs. Our cab driver with his friend was already waiting for us at 4:00pm. The cab in which JungleBoy, Gits and Silverchair were riding went back to the police station at the advised of their driver. JungleBoy just informed the police on duty that everyone in the group climbed down in one piece. Their cabby advised them that taking the bus back to Singapore would be a better option. They approved on his suggestion, though reminding him to communicate this to his friend.

Their cab arrived at the bus station around 7:30pm. The last trip to Johor Bahru was 9:00pm. But Tere, Dess and Stab were not around. They should have arrived first at the station. Miscommunication or no communication, anyway, they were brought to train station. They already bought train tickets for the last trip to Singapore at a total amount of 42.00 ringgit and just waiting for JungleBoy’s group. All along JungleBoy’s group cabbie didn't communicated to his friend that he will take the group to the bus terminal. So, we missed the last train to Singapore.

Tere, Dess and Stab arrived shortly at the bus station after JungleBoy’s group cabbie called his friend. We hurriedly bought the tickets at 7.50 ringgit each. Looking at the brighter side, missing the train gave the group a break to have dinner. At the advised of our cabbie, we went to a food court just above the bus station. The place looked desolated, only few stalls were open.

It was already 8:10pm, we came to a stall and all ordered nasi goreng and ice Milo. There was no time to cater individual meal preference.

The dinner was a quick one, it was over around 8:40pm. Before catching the bus, Tere did what a sensible smoker will do. She bought five packs of Marlboro and 'distributed' the four packs to the rest, Silverchair already bought his pack of cigarette. And as a 'pre-cautionary immigration' measures, each one opened 'their' pack of cigarette and took out one stick. Since Gits and Dess don’t smoke, the two sticks were handed back to Tere.


Back to 'Woodlands'
While waiting for the bus, Tere had time to puff the extra sticks. As passengers started to board, we hopped along to the bus. It was a decent and comfortable bus. The group had a chance to rest and sleep, except Tere who gazed at the darkness from her window.

We arrived at Larkin Terminal, Johor Bahru at 10:30pm. We walked towards Bus 170 parked along with the other Malaysian buses. Waiting for the bus to depart, Tere and Dess went to the rest room. While they're away the bus captain of 170 arrived, started the engine and let his queuing passengers in. Gits literally pleaded to the bus driver to wait for 2 mins. as he saw Tere and Dess walking towards them. His plea fell into deaf ears.

It was only 11:00pm and the next Bus 170 will depart at 11:30am. Good thing there were other buses going to 'Woodlands', though a bit expensive. Nevertheless, we took it.

All passengers hastily alighted as the bus stopped for clearance at the Malaysian immigration. The group passed the immigration without any snag. For those in the group who had been in Malaysia for the first time, passing the Malaysian immigration meant a stamp on their passport. A nice souvenir!

We hopped back again to our bus. Next, the Singaporean immigration. After showing our ICs, we immediately proceeded for the baggage scanner. Gits was ordered to open his pack after it was conveyed under the scanner. Perplexed, he followed and one by one he pulled out whatever inside it while the packs of the rest of the group passed without any issues. And only when he got hold on to the vodka bottle that he realized it. All along he forgot the vodka. With no money left, Stab lends him 50 bucks just in case he will be required to pay tax for the 'smuggled' vodka.

He was escorted to a room. There were other people inside being questioned on the goods they brought from Malaysia. After the lady immigration officer showed to her superior the 350 ml opened vodka bottle, he was released and with all smiles he rejoined the group. Even Stab forgot the two Red Horse in his pack, perhaps these were mistaken for Coke in cans. Cheers!

We quickly run to our bus, clearly waiting only for us. The bus stopped at a car park near Sim Lim Square around 12:15am. Time to go back to each one's home. We split into three groups, JungleBoy and Tere went first, followed by Silverchair and Dess, and last to flag a taxi were Stab and Gits.


Next Climb
Reaching each home, we rested our wearied bodies and reflected back to our journey and adventure. Climbing Gunung Belumut was only the beginning. For Silverchair and Dess, this was a birth of a new passion. The triumphant ascent of Belumut's trail was an achievement and an 'extreme' experience for them. Gits who had lost 'life', reaching Belumut's peak rejuvenated his soul and gave him new strength. Tere a seasoned climber during her Mapua days and who was longing for mountains. Belumut answered her yearning and gave her a new and indescribable experience. JungleBoy who had not climb mountains for 11 years, the climb was a 'redemption' for him. As member of the UST Mountaineering Club in his college days, indeed Belumut redeemed his fervour with mountain climbing. Stab who loves travel and social activities, the climb on Gunung Belumut gave him a new definition of experience, ASTIG.

Gunung Belumut Itinerary


GUNUNG BELUMUT CLIMB

Itinerary
DAY 1:
0715 Meeting at KTMB train station
0740 Train Departs for Kluang Town
1000 Arrival at Kluang Town.
1015 Free to roam, lunch and buy last minute items
1130 Depart Kluang Town by taxi
1200 Arrive at Belumut Park Entrance
1300 Start Trek (approximately 4 hours to campsite)
1700 Arrive at campsite. Setup campsite and prepare for dinner. R & R

DAY 2:
0800 Wake up and trek to summit
0900 Breakfast and prepare for descent
1300 Arrival at base. Washup and have lunch at park
1400 Taxi to Kluang town ????
???? Bus to Kluang town to JB
???? Bus from JB to Singapore